Santiago, take 2...

I will have to admit, my first impression of Santiago wasn't a good one. My experience in the airport wasn't as expected. Deboarding in a new country was all the same, customs form, line to get your stamp, entry tax...entry tax? Certain citizens (U.S., Canadian, Australian, and Mexican) have to pay and entry tax to get into Chile. Us Americans owe the Chilean government a hefty $100 a pop to come play in their country. Why? Frankly, I'm not sure. But, I paid without question and finally got another stamp in my passport.

On the other side of the pearly gates, I met up with my friend Mike, the first familiar face I've seen in 3 weeks. It was a moment of mixed emotions. I was excited to see someone I knew, especially upon entering the extremely unfamiliar continent of South America, but at the same time, I was sad. I was enjoying my solo travels more than I ever thought I would. I was able to free my mind and think in ways I have never been able to before. I felt enlightened in my own mind and disconnected from the world, in just the right way. "My chi was aligned," so they say.

There is something that happens to you when you are alone. You are forced to do things that normally you might rely on another to do for you. The initiation of conversation is a big one, for me. Most times, I'm not one to do it, but while trekking through a foreign land, solo, generating a talk about the annoyance of the hostel internet connection might be the most interactive thing you do all day. And trust me, there are some days where that *is* the most interactive thing you do all day. I don't think I had a day where I didn't talk to anyone, but it came close a few times. That was my biggest worry about traveling alone, who would I talk to? I came to find out that there are plenty of people to meet during your travels, and if it weren't for hostels, I probably wouldn't have met most of them. Hostel-hopping may be reminiscent of college dorm days (which I never experienced,) but they also generate spontaneous interaction with people you might not otherwise come in contact with.

And now, here in Chile, all that time to myself ended, abruptly. I was teamed up with another travel buddy, but not ready for it. It wasn't a bad thing, I just needed some readjusting. It wasn't until Day 3 that finally got used to traveling with someone again. The hardest part is decisions, deciding what to go see, or where to eat or what city we want to go next. When you are alone, it’s easy; there is only one person to entertain. Add in one more mind, and there is a chance of conflicting interests. That hasn’t happened yet on this trip, but there is still time…

Day 1 & 2 were spent mostly wandering around, getting our bearings, seeing the “big” things that we could tell from our map and our guide book; monuments, mountains and markets. Day 3 was when I finally got a feel for the city.

Old versus new in Santiago

Santiago is a big city, but the important areas are spread out, split up. The CBD is in the middle, and a few blocks out is the main plaza. A few more blocks and you’ve got the Mercado Central. Walk about a half mile down the river and you’re in Bellavista, the “artsy” neighborhood. From there, cross back over the river and you’ve come to yet another neighborhood that encompasses a castle and a museum.

Santiago is all over the place. Nothing is stagnant, you can’t predict what neighborhood is coming around the corner. Every new street is a new surprise. The best comparison I can make is this:

Santiago is to Chile as Upper King Street is to Charleston.

Santiago is a charming and beautiful city hidden under a layer grimy neglect. Every single street is lined with amazing displays of architecture from colonial all the way to modern, yet some of them are in ruins from decades of neglect. Years of grime have encrusted the once bright paint that distinguished one address from the next. Dirt coats every sidewalk and litter gathers in most gutters. Trash cans overflow, if they are even used, and the river is flooded with refuse. It’s difficult to tell the difference between a bad neighborhood and a good one, they are all dirty.

But, after a few hours of exploring, you will stumble upon one of the few beautiful sections of the city; streets lined with trees bearing spring flowers that fill the esplanade with the sweet scent of spring, brightly painted buildings that house eclectic restaurants or pubs or galleries, or a park that beckons you to steal a moment of solitude on one of its benches.

Santiago’s charm is hidden underneath its unfortunate layer of soot. It’s difficult to look through the filth and see the beauty, but it is there, begging to be discovered, and once you are able to see past decay, Santiago shines.

It may be something small at first that catches your eye: the shine of an address plate hanging on a wall, the ornate carving of a doorframe, the intricate ironwork above an entryway, something small draws you in and opens your mind. From that point forward, you can see past all the dirt and see the real Santiago, a beautiful old world city trying to make a name for itself in this modern era, a people who take pride in the image of their city although it may not pass our western standards. A city guarded by snow-capped Andes that look down on skyscrapers and cathedrals alike. A city who tries hard to be its best.

And it’s with that opinion that I leave this city. Our next destination is Valparaiso, a port city known for is winding streets, multitudes of staircases and bohemian atmosphere. Its here that I hope to get a deeper feel for Chilean culture; fishermen, artists and architecture are what I’m hoping to see, and photograph, here.

This country has proven to be a challenge thus far, but now that the hard part, the introduction, is over, I hope to smile with this country, its culture and its beauty.